Geneva Watch Days is undoubtedly one of the most prominent watch fairs of the year, making it an event to keep an eye out for. The Geneva Watch Days concept, which was introduced in 2020 and strengthened in 2021, is now ingrained in the practices of the watchmaking industry. It is a global, autonomous, self-managed and open-to-the-public salon. This year, Geneva Watch Days brought together about 40 brands that displayed their mastery of horology in various hotels, manufactures, and boutiques.
A group of founding benefactor brands, including Bulgari, Breitling, De Bethune, H. Moser & Cie, MB&F, Ulysse Nardin, and Urwerk, initiated this programme. Additional Maisons like Jacob & Co, Arnold & Son, Doxa, Frédérique Constant, Atelier de Monaco, Alpina, Greubel Forsey, Maurice Lacroix, Oris, and Phillips in collaboration with Bacs and Russo, and Reuge have already formally joined the event as Benefactor or Associate Members. As Regular Members, Bianchet, Czapek, and Louis Erard joined.
Geneva Watch Days had decentralised, “Phygital (Physical + Digital)” format which proved to be admirably suited to the current times.
We have brought you watches from two mind-blowing brands – MB&F and De Bethune that were a part of Geneva Watch Days 2022.
Discovering Legacy Machine Split Escapement Evo – MB&F
Maximilian Busser and Stephen McDonnell have created the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement, their latest creation. Both had previously worked together on the most complicated Legacy Machine watch, the Legacy Machine Perpetual. The main feature of the watch is its oversized 14mm balance wheel which remains centre-stage for this new creation, the fifth in the Legacy Machine line floating above all other features of the dial and beautifully nestled just under the domed sapphire glass. The functions and difficulties change throughout the Legacy Machine collection, but the suspended balance wheel stays constant as it flies literally and metaphorically above everything else.
As a result, the escapement of the Legacy Machine Split Escapement is actually split into two parts. On the dial side of the watch, the spinning balance wheel takes centre stage, rising and flying above all other parts. On the opposite side of the watch, you can find the anchor and escapement wheel. The visual impact is stunning, as the balance appears to oscillate on its own, with no visible energy intake. The remaining components of the escapement – anchor and escape wheel – are hidden on the opposite side of the movement, nearly 12mm below.
The movement of the MB&F Legacy Machine Split Escapement is not as complex as that of the Legacy Machine Perpetual. The Legacy Machine Split Escapement beats in a slow, hypnotic 2.5 Hz rhythm. The impression is magnified and played with by the domed sapphire glass. The first dial at 12 o’clock under the balance wheel displays the time with two blue hour and minute hands. A single hand indicates the 72-hour power reserve on the dial, which is located near 4 o’clock. Finally, the date dial is located near 8 o’clock and is denoted by a single blue hand. A push-button next to the date dial on the side of the 44mm 18k white gold case allows for a quick and simple date change.
Price and availability
Price : CHF 75,000 + tax
Availability : The Legacy Machine Split Escapement EVO Icy-Cool isn’t a limited edition piece
For more information you can go through MB&F website.
Discovering De Bethune DB25 Perpetual Calendar
At Geneva Watch Days 2022, De Bethune unveiled a brand-new 40mm titanium case for its Perpetual Calendar collection. DB25 dial with dual tones of silver and blue. With its integrated lugs and radiating guilloché pattern spread across 12 different sections, this new 40mm titanium case is a classic interpretation of the DB25.
De Bethune’s Perpetual Calendar combines the finesse of watchmaking with the precision mechanics of the Manufacture and takes on a poetic air by pairing the most romantic complication. The everlasting calendar, the moon phase, and its starry sky are all displayed within a remarkable timepiece.
The spherical casing of the new DB25 is constructed of titanium, a material that the Manufacture has started to embrace recently while retaining the harmonic lines that contributed to the popularity of the first DB25. This classically-inspired timepiece’s curved integrated lugs and open-worked design increase its adaptability and comfort.
The self-regulating double barrel, triple pare-chute system, titanium/white gold balance, perpetual calendar, spherical moon indicating the moon phases with a precision equivalent to 1 day/122 years, and all of these were created by Denis Flageollet’s team in Manufacturer’s Haute Horlogerie workshops in Sainte Croix (Swiss Jura). The watch’s power reserve is 5 days.
By adding a smooth curve to the exterior of the balance spring, Manufacturer De Bethune has decided to retain the centre of gravity of the watch’s balance spring precisely in the middle.
The mechanical watch’s “soul” is sometimes referred to be this tiny, very fine hairspring. The variations in blade thickness contribute to the practically faultless concentric growth of the blade. Few of its many advantages include reduced thickness, improved concentricity quality, finer adjustment of the index-assembly system, and the lack of pins (the curve itself acts as a shock absorber).
Price and availability
Price: CHF 125,000
Availability: Limited to 15 pieces per year
For more information you can go through De Bethune website.